Domaine Saumaize-Michelin
We know how we work and this is what really matters.
Lisa Saumaize, with her contagious joie de vivre, opens the doors of her Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, where sustainability and the biodynamic method of winemaking have always been a philosophy.
Lying on the outskirts of Macon, is a quaint, little antique shop.
A place of calm, you can spend whole days there just breathing in its authentic, French allure.
The owners don't trail after you like bloodhounds on your heels and you can browse in peace, rummaging at leisure and discovering all manner of bizarre trinkets and knick-knacks.
I knew we would never have left empty-handed and I can now boast a collection of over 50 volumes, dating back to 1887, of the Journal del Voyages: a French weekly that mixed realistic stories of travel and exploration with incredible fiction and imaginative illustrations.
La Versione di Gunter from the 19th century, missing only a worthy mention of “La Marechaude” Pouilly Fuisse 1er cru 2022, but we will take care of that ourselves.
There is a whole world lying both within and beyond Macon: to those arriving from the south, this pretty little town dating back to the 2nd century B.C. welcomes you to Burgundy.
"La Marechaude" Pouilly Fuisse 1er cru 2022 is one of Domaine Saumaize-Michelin's extraordinary wines. Try them all and be enthralled with every sip.
Burgundy: the name alone is enough to conjure up illustrious wines. The region's world-famous reds and whites date back to 1375, while Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes still grow abundantly throughout these picturesque valleys.
Although it is easy to splurge out in order to find greatness, it takes many more sips and numerous tastings to find a truly wonderful label without risking bankruptcy.
This is why we have returned to Macon: a reason whose name is Lisa Saumaize.
It is a cool March morning and we are driving towards the heart of the Mâconnais under clear blue skies. We are on our way to Vergisson where, nestling at the foot of the symbolic Roche de Vergisson, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin produces white wines from the very best terroirs of the Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran appellations.
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Every month we travel the world to discover an exclusive winery. Every month you will receive what we consider to be its best bottle delivered directly to your door: a wine that is always new, exclusive and surprising.
Lisa, the daughter of Roger Saumaize and his wife Christine Michelin, whose surname gives the winery its name, has a face of dazzling radiance, a disarming smile, an infectious joie de vivre and the enthusiasm of a friend you haven't seen in a long time.
Our first taste of Pouilly-Fuissé from her Domaine took place in a restaurant in Macon in September 2021. Simona and I were astounded and, without giving it a second thought, we decided to drop round and ring on her bell.
Two years have passed since our first meeting with Lisa and it is wonderful to have the opportunity to meet her again and taste her incredible wines.
We descend into the bowels of the cellar, following her voice, which, switching seamlessly between French and English, tells us the story of her family.
A story that speaks of a strong bond with the land and constant growth, which has led to the current 11 hectares of vineyards.
In an age when sustainability is an increasingly important value and younger producers are preserving tradition but turning their attention to increasingly eco-friendly practices, here at Domaine Saumaize-Michelin they are not chasing trends but simply honouring a decade-long tradition.
We are a family estate on a human scale. - Lisa tells us.
The Saumaize family continues a legacy that spans generations of winemaking. Their vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran embody respect for land which has been farmed sustainably and organically for over 20 years. Since 2005, older vines more than 50 years old have been tended using biodynamic methods, something quite rare in a region where the use of herbicides is still common, with a focus on achieving the fullest expression of the terroir and trying to capture the energy of the place.
Moreover, since 1985 the various plots are also vinified separately.
Under the vaulted ceiling we walk among the barrels, breathing in the aroma. That unmistakable scent which anyone who has ever visited a winery would recognise anywhere.
Biodynamic farming, manual harvesting and limited yields are the cornerstones of Lisa and her family's approach in the vineyard.
We do not seek to expand and plant ever more vines - Lisa tells us - we work calmly, favouring the biodiversity of the soil, nourishing it and preserving it. All this is work that requires time and observation, something we consider incompatible with mass production.
Through Lisa's words, the identity of this place and the family who animate have cast a spell on us.
This Domaine is truly one of the most inspiring in all Burgundy.
Stepping outside, we are greeted by the rays of a sun that invites us to sit down and taste a few glasses of Chardonnay.
Oui, oui, c'est parfait! is Lisa's exclamation each time she confirms her recognition of perfection in the wine she has just uncorked.
And then, there it is: a shower of Chardonnay.
The labels follow one after the other, in a crescendo of mineral elegance, richness, volume, a faint memory of an exotic sensation, but then tension, drive and energy.
The wines here really are something different. Concentrated and structured, they exemplify artisanal excellence.
Different personalities of the same soul.
For three of them, we remain speechless.
"Pentacrine" Pouilly Fuissé 2022. The name Pentacrine comes from a small star-shaped marine fossil, the emblem of the estate, found in some of the land on the Roche de Vergisson.
The cuvée is a blend of grapes from five different plots on the Roche de Vergisson. It is vinified in large barrels in order to enhance the wine's freshness.
Tropical and citrus aromas and a mineral character are followed by complex citrus and apple flavours, balanced by refreshing acidity. A deliciously pure and fresh white wine.
"Sur la Roche" Pouilly Fuisse 1er cru 2022. The popularity and renown of our Domaine were built on this wine, Lisa tells us.
It is the emblematic wine of the estate.
Totalling approximately 1.65 hectares, it was the first land purchased by Lisa's parents in 1981.
An excellent wine that comes from grapes that are two-thirds 35 years old with the remainder almost 100 years old. It displays a soft fruitiness with a disarming mineralitỳ that reveals the magical energy of this land. It is a wine with great ageing potential.
"La Marechaude" Pouilly Fuisse 1er cru 2022. The layout of vineyard verges on the absurd and is almost impossible to work. Prohibitively sloped, even walking between the rows presents a veritable challenge to human ability.
However, it produces an excellent wine, made from a Chardonnay vineyard that is over 29 years old and cultivated using the biodynamic method.
This Chardonnay offers fresh and elegant notes of white flowers, crisp, citrus and exotic fruits. The palate is powerful and mineral, with fantastic balance, finesse and freshness.
It has literally enchanted us.
We know how we work. For my family, the biodynamic method is no mere epithet, but rather a philosophy.
With these words, Lisa helps us understand that the family’s intent has never been to search for labels or logos that would enhance, if such things were ever needed, the extraordinary work that the whole family carries out on a daily basis.
We know how we work and this is what really matters; we don’t need any labels on the bottle.
Let me give you another example. - she continues - Only we four members of the family bottle the wine. Many hire in outsiders to bottle and optimise the timing in an attempt to finish sooner. Not us. We need calm. The wine must be respected, and to do that, we take as much time as we need.
Being here is an absolute joy for me and Simona. The atmosphere around the table is convivial, while the minerality and liveliness found in the wines also seem to be present in Lisa and her way of being. So spontaneous, sunny and full of energy.
The arrival of her father Roger is the most unexpected surprise of the day. We had never met him before, and his presence silenced the entire group.
Rarely in my life have I met a person with a face as expressive as it is inscrutable.
The handshake is firm.
Every line on his face hides a story. Every movement of his lips shares a tale. The simple silence that accompanies him during our minutes together fascinates us.
After a quick exchange of banter with Lisa, the pair decide to take us to see the crazy terrain on which the La Marechaude vineyard stands.
We have visited the Valtellina, the Azores, the Cinque Terre. But in terms of the sheer physical effort required, La Marechaude is absolutely without equal.
Seeing Lisa and Roger walk between the rows of vines and scramble to cover just a few simple metres gives us an idea of the effort they have to put into this tiny handkerchief of land. A price they are willing to pay for a wine that is as extraordinary as it is unique.
The result of the Saumaize family's labour of love is a production that is perfectly attuned to wine lovers, whether experts or novices, who are looking for a unique soul that faithfully reflects the terroir from which it springs.
The visit to the Domaine Saumaize-Michelin in Vergisson, which belongs to Pouilly-Fuisse in the same way that Montalcino belongs to Tuscany, did not fail to live up to our expectations and enabled us to spend a few hours with wonderful people and Chardonnays of incredible merit.
And, although we would like to stay here forever, we slowly make our way towards Macon, leaving it behind us and saying goodbye to Burgundy with a light heart because, we know, it is only goodbye.
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