Figuière

Provence, a crisp, light-filled image, instantly conjuring up endless stretches of vineyards: true works of art, set in a rich heritage of history, medieval villages, markets and white beaches with pristine, limpid coves. It is no coincidence that Vincent Van Gogh said that "The whole future of art is to be found in the South of France."

Likewise, cinema, the seventh art, has also transported us to those incredible sunny days where, in films such as La Piscine and French Kiss, soft hues tinge atmospheric summers, punctuated by the rhythm of poolside aperitifs, strolls amidst the sound of cicadas and bike rides tempered by cool sea breezes.

With its azure waters, colourful villages, lively beach clubs and that idea of sparkling carefreeness embodied by an ice-cold rosé, it is fair to say that the Mediterranean coast has well and truly entered the collective imagination over the generations. For us Explorers, soon to discover the Pionnière, it is also about to enter our hearts, never to leave them again.

And it is along this very coast, that excited we have driven to reach our destination, lying at the foot of the Massif des Maures, 45 minutes from Saint-Tropez and in the heart of the Côtes de Provence appellation, facing the islands of Porquerolles and close to Le Lavandou and Bormes-les-Mimosas: Figuière: a name that means “fig tree” in Provencal dialect.

"For 20 years, my father partnered with Michel Laroche. Together they built what became one of the most celebrated Burgundian houses, Domaine Laroche. It was there that my father forged his knowledge in the world of wine.”

In 1992, Alain Combard and his wife, Gabrielle, decided to leave Burgundy and move to Provence, their native region, in search of a new vineyard to acquire. 

"It was a bold bet," says Magali as we walk along, "Because in the 1990s Provence was poor in wine production and very little known. However, my father believed in it and he found something in the terroir of La Londe that reminded him of Chablis. That was enough to convince him to settle here."

Thirty years on, Magali, her brother Francois and sister Delphine manage their father's legacy, cultivating the vines and being careful to safeguard the surrounding landscape. Time, natural erosion and the presence of wildlife are all an integral part of the Figuière ecosystem.
Since 1979, the company has been producing certified organic wines. And when, in 1992, Magali's father bought the Domaine, his choice to do so was not questioned in the slightest.

"In the current context of flux and transition in Provence, we are amongst the last family run wineries in Provence." Magali continues, "What enables us to maintain this identity? That we are a family and remain one with a real passion for wines."

A smile crosses her face: "My father left us too soon and now we take care of what he created.”

We leave the vineyard and the broiling Provençal sun, which, in the meantime, has become blisteringly hot. "The climate has decimated the land. The excessively high temperatures have totally robbed it of the lush green that is its usual hallmark," remarks Magali pensively, as she invites us to follow her into the winemaking room, in search of some welcome refreshment.

What we inhale inside is not an odour: it is pure perfume.
Unmistakable, alluring, enchanting, ancient, deep and fresh all at the same time; it is an invitation to close our eyes and try to capture as many different scents as possible.
Something quite unique for anyone who has ever breathed it.

As we move between the barrels, a proud Magali explains that today the estate covers 185 hectares and is spread over three distinct terroirs of the Côtes de Provence: Figuière, where we are now, since 2019, Château Barbeiranne, located in Pignans behind the Maures massif and recently, Clos Fanny in Collobrières, inside the Maures massif.
Three estates and three terroirs, each working in harmony with the other, continuing the work begun by her father and now in the hands of Francois.

"My brother Francois is an artist! He graduated in Fine Art, but when our father proposed that he join  him, he didn't think twice. After all, making wine is an art form and in it my brother found the highly creative side that has always attracted him.”

A schistose soil predominates here and the Mediterranean Sea strongly influences the climate, both moderating the excessively hot summers, and ensuring that winters are never truly cold. The grape varieties planted for the whites are Rolle, Semillon and Ugni Blanc. Whilst a red blend of Mourvèdre and Syrah is reserved for the red wines, Cinsault and Grenache are used for the rosé wines.

It was here that their father, Alain Combard, infused a new type of white wine with the minerality and freshness of Chablis.

And now, at long last, the time has come to taste the noblest line of Figuière's whole production. Seated on the veranda, we are enraptured by Magali and her boundless enthusiasm as she tells us about her labels.

Confidentielle Blanc,100% Rolle (Vermentino): here is the freshness we’d been expecting, here is the soul infused by Alain Combard!
A wine with a brilliant golden hue. In its elegance, it releases aromas of exotic fruit and citrus fruits mingling with notes of toasted almonds. Rich and original, with a full body enabling it to be kept for several years; this is a noble wine indeed.
The freshness is long and generous, emphasising the fullness of the fruit that mingles with the hint of wood with a sensual finish.

Pionnière, from Mourvèdre and Grenache grapes.
"This is not a rosé! THIS IS NOT A ROSÉ!" Is Simona's exclamation as soon as she smells it.
We repeat it between us for a few seconds, gazing wide-eyed at each other.
This wine is proof positive of how wrong the idea we have of rosé wines is.

Catching sight of our expressions, Magali smiles and tells us, "My father wanted to create a rosé that could be compared to the great whites." Well, he definitely succeeded.

"This is a gastronomic rosé that can easily speak the language of whites."
I fully agree with our host's description.
We are completely enraptured. This is our absolute favourite.

The Grenache grapes come from a schistose soil veined with white quartz, while the Mourvèdre grapes come from a sandy-siliceous schist soil surrounded by pine forests, cork oaks, strawberry trees and eucalyptus.

With its hand-applied metal label, the bottle is already a foretaste of the meticulousness with which this very limited-production wine is made.

Pale apricot-pink in colour, to the nose it displays a hint of smoke and toasted bread, exhibiting a depth of aromas ranging from peaches and apricots to cream and vanilla, with a touch of spice.
Dry, and at the same time rich, with a creamy body, its smooth acidity maintains a tonic sensation throughout. Generously flavoured, with a spicy character reminiscent of cumin and cinnamon, its fascinating fruit mingles with pastry notes, and the toasty finish from the months spent in wooden barrels, lends it a lovely bitter edge, very much redolent of orange marmalade.

Confidentielle Rouge, produced with Mourvèdre and Syrah grapes, is a red wine that releases all the strength of the Provençal terroir and the abundant sunshine it is born under.

Depending on the vintage, it is aged for between 10 and 14 months in 300-litre oak casks from the forests of Bertranges, Tronçais and Allier.

“Many people don't believe that we perform a co-fermentation between Mourvèdre and Syrah," explains Magali, "because Syrah is one of the earliest-ripening red grapes, generally harvested much earlier than Mourvèdre. Due to such a parcel of Syrah, with a northern and cooler exposure, these Syrah grapes are harvested slightly over-ripened in order to harvest them together with the Mourvèdre.”

The cuvée Confidentielle Rouge is intense and its aromas of ripe cherries 'in alcohol', liquorice, garrigue and roasted cocoa beans transport us into a world of flavours. The textural quality in the mouth is soft and fine. The liquorice and cherry aromas are ever present and elegant. A harmonious wine that enchants you with its equilibrium. 

A veritable discovery, indeed.

Then, suddenly, it is already time for us to leave. Perhaps it was the conviviality and the welcoming atmosphere, maybe it was the exquisite wines, or the stimulating conversations, but the hours we we’ve spent with Magali have flown by in the blink of an eye.

The Combard family's bond with the legacy left by their father is something tangible, pervading and embracing the whole estate.
The bottles tasted, the result of work carried out with maniacal care, are the astonishing expression of this incredible place.

And just like the historic vineyards they hail from, these wines will continue to improve with time.
This combination of art, sustainability and rosé is like a welcome breath of fresh air which, we are sure, will continue to delight for a good many years to come.